Eigene Herstellung im Weingut Schloß Gobelsburg. 6 Monate auf dem Holzfaß bevor er zur 2. Gärung auf die Flasche kommt. Handgerüttelt! Parker-Schildknecht 90: “L” stands for lot notwithstanding, Schloss Gobelsburg’s NV Brut Reserve L10/13 is actually disambiguated by means of its October, 2013 disgorgement date. Based on vintages 2010 and 2009, it, as usual in recent years, comprises Gruner Veltliner, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Alluring scents of saffron and sea breeze, clover and yellow split pea rise from the glass along with finely integrated streams of CO2. Dominated on the palate as well by its majority Gruner Veltliner, this combines vivacity and infectious juiciness with silken underlying texture. It finishes mouthwateringly saline, refreshing, and with subtle green herbal piquancy. Plan to enjoy it over the next couple of years. (I have omitted reviews of the consistently excellent Gobelsburg sparklers on past occasions because until last year there was no indication on the label to distinguish one from another.) Largely due to May frost, Michael Moosbrugger experienced in 2012 the smallest harvest since he took over Schloss Gobelsburg (and debuted as a vintner) in 1996. Despite this small crop and largely balmy conditions, harvest still stretched until the tenth of November. “One reason for that,” he admits, “is the red wines, because we always begin with them to avoid over-ripeness or danger of rot, and for red wine you have to harvest at precisely the right time, especially with St. Laurent” rather than enjoying the flexibility offered by Gruner Veltliner and Riesling. In the event, the whites here this year seldom significantly exceeded 13% in alcohol.