Moulin A Vent

Parker 91, The 2021 Moulin-à-Vent is promising, unwinding in the glass with notes of wild berries, vine smoke, petals and spices. Medium to full-bodied, supple and saline, with a tightly wound core, it will reward at least a year or two of patience. No one has done more to validate the potential for quality in the southern Beaujolais than Jean-Paul Brun, and though he's beginning to contemplate retirement, for now it's still full speed ahead. As readers will remember, the approach at this address is frequently described as Burgundian, which is to say, the fruit is destemmed and macerations last as long as four weeks, followed by élevage in used barrels. The 2021 vintage marks a return to a cooler, crunchier style of Beaujolais, though Brun's approach means that the wines, especially the top crus, are far from facile and will reward a bit of bottle age.